Quick answer: know your dog’s cold tolerance before you go, because small, short-coated, very young, older and sick dogs get cold much faster than thick-coated breeds. Bring an insulated sleeping pad and blanket or dog sleeping bag so your dog never sleeps directly on snow, pack extra food and unfrozen water, protect paws with booties or paw balm, and keep your dog inside the tent at night. Watch for shivering, lifting paws, slowing down or whining, and warm your dog up right away if you see them.
Many dogs love snow. They bound through drifts, roll in fresh powder and seem to have twice as much energy on a cold day. A winter campout with your dog can be a wonderful experience, but cold weather is harder on dogs than many owners expect. Dogs lose heat through their paws, bellies and ears, can get ice packed between their toes, and cannot tell you when they are getting dangerously cold.
This guide is part of our complete winter camping guide. It builds on the basics in our guide to camping with dogs, adding everything specific to snow and cold.
Sources: American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) cold weather pet safety guidance; American Kennel Club (AKC) information on cold tolerance, booties and winter paw care; ASPCA Animal Poison Control information on antifreeze and ice melt toxicity; veterinary references on hypothermia and frostbite in dogs; Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics guidance on pets.
Is Your Dog Ready for Winter Camping?
The AVMA notes that cold tolerance varies from dog to dog based on coat, body fat, activity level and health. Some breeds were developed for cold climates and have thick double coats, while others have thin coats and little body fat.
Dogs that usually handle cold better:
- Thick, double-coated breeds such as Huskies, Malamutes, Bernese Mountain Dogs and many shepherds
- Larger, healthy adult dogs in good condition
- Dogs already used to cold weather and regular exercise
Dogs that are more vulnerable to cold:
- Small breeds and toy breeds
- Short-coated or thin dogs, such as Greyhounds, Whippets, Chihuahuas and Boxers
- Puppies and senior dogs
- Dogs with health conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, heart disease, kidney disease or hormonal disorders
Talk with your veterinarian before a winter trip, especially if your dog is older or has health issues. A test run in cold weather close to home, such as a long afternoon hike or a night in a backyard tent, can show how your dog handles the conditions.
Building Up to a Winter Trip
Dogs, like people, do better in winter when they are conditioned for it. A dog that spends most of the year indoors may tire quickly in deep snow or get cold faster than expected. Build up gradually with longer winter walks and day hikes in the weeks before your trip, and watch how your dog handles different temperatures, wind and snow depths.
Practice with gear before you leave. Put booties and a jacket on your dog for short periods at home, rewarding calm behavior with treats, then use them on walks. Set up your tent in the backyard or living room so your dog gets used to the space and the sound of zippers and sleeping bag fabric. A dog that already sees the tent as a cozy, familiar place usually settles faster at camp.
Start with a short, easy first trip, such as one night at a drive-in campground close to your car. That way you can head home or warm up in the vehicle if the weather turns or your dog is not comfortable.
Snowshoeing and Skiing With Your Dog
Many dogs enjoy snowshoe hikes and cross-country ski outings. A few tips help everyone stay safe:
- Keep your dog behind or beside you rather than underfoot, since snowshoe crampons and ski edges can cut paws and legs.
- Use a waist leash or skijoring harness only after training, and only on trails where dogs are allowed.
- Let your dog walk in your packed track. Breaking trail through deep snow is exhausting, especially for small dogs.
- Respect trail rules. Many groomed cross-country ski areas do not allow dogs, or allow them only on specific trails or days. Check before you go.
- Take frequent breaks for water, food and paw checks.
Getting to and From the Trailhead
Winter driving can be slow and unpredictable. Keep your dog secured in the vehicle with a crash-tested harness or crate, and pack extra blankets, food and water in case you are delayed or stranded. Never leave your dog alone in a parked car for long periods in cold weather. The AVMA warns that cars can act like refrigerators in winter, holding in the cold and putting animals at risk. Towel your dog dry before getting back in the vehicle, and check paws for ice and salt after walking through parking areas.
Gear for Your Dog
Insulation from the ground
Snow and frozen ground pull heat from a dog’s body quickly, just as they do from yours. Never let your dog sleep directly on snow or a bare tent floor. Bring:
- An insulated pad, such as a closed-cell foam pad, to go under your dog.
- A blanket, dog sleeping bag or dog-specific insulated bed on top of the pad.
Many owners let their dog share their own sleeping area, which helps both stay warm. Our guide to choosing a sleeping bag and pad explains R-values, which matter for your dog’s pad too.
Coats and jackets
Dogs with short or thin coats benefit from an insulated or fleece jacket, and a waterproof outer layer if it is wet. Make sure the jacket fits well, covers the chest and belly, and does not rub. Remove a wet jacket at night and replace it with a dry one if you can.
Booties and paw protection
Paws are vulnerable to cold, ice and sharp crust. Common problems include ice balls forming between toes, cracked pads and cuts from icy snow. Options include:
- Booties that protect paws from cold, ice and ice melt chemicals. Practice at home first, since many dogs need time to get used to them.
- Paw balm or wax, which can help protect pads and reduce ice buildup between toes.
- Trimming the fur between toes, which reduces ice balls for some long-haired dogs. Ask a groomer or vet if you are unsure.
Check paws often, especially on long outings.
Lights and visibility
Winter days are short. A light-up collar or clip-on light helps you see your dog after dark, and a reflective jacket makes them visible to others.
Leash and harness
Keep your dog leashed or under close control. Snow can muffle sounds and hide hazards like thin ice, steep drop-offs and wildlife. A harness gives you better control on slippery terrain.
Food and Water
More calories
Dogs burn extra energy staying warm and moving through snow. Many dogs need more food on winter trips. Bring extra meals and calorie-dense treats, and feed small portions during the day as well as a full meal at night. Ask your vet how much extra your dog might need.
Unfrozen water
Dogs can become dehydrated in winter, and eating snow is not a reliable substitute for drinking water, since snow takes body heat to melt. Bring insulated bottles, keep water from freezing by storing it inside your pack or tent, and offer water often. A collapsible bowl works well, and an insulated bowl slows freezing at camp.
Protecting Your Dog From Winter Hazards
Antifreeze and ice melt
Antifreeze containing ethylene glycol is highly toxic to dogs and can be fatal even in small amounts, according to the ASPCA. Dogs may be attracted to its sweet taste. Watch for spills in parking areas and around vehicles. Some ice melt products can irritate paws and cause stomach upset if licked off. Wipe your dog’s paws after walking on treated surfaces, and use pet-safe products around your own vehicle.
Frozen lakes and rivers
Dogs can fall through thin ice and struggle to climb out. Keep your dog away from frozen water unless you know the ice is safe, and never go onto unsafe ice to rescue a dog. Call for help and encourage the dog to swim toward you if possible.
Wildlife
Some wildlife is active in winter, and animals may be stressed by cold and limited food. Keep your dog leashed to prevent chasing wildlife, which wastes the animal’s energy and can put your dog at risk.
Exhaustion
Snow is tiring. Watch for signs that your dog is slowing down, lagging behind or lying down. Plan shorter distances than you would in summer, and turn back early if needed.
Signs of Hypothermia and Frostbite in Dogs
Dogs can develop hypothermia and frostbite, just like people. Learn the signs and act quickly. Our guide to hypothermia and frostbite covers the human side.
Hypothermia
Signs may include:
- Shivering, which may stop as hypothermia worsens
- Lethargy or weakness
- Slow or stiff movement
- Cold body, ears and paws
- Pale or gray gums
- Confusion or unresponsiveness in severe cases
Frostbite
Frostbite most often affects ears, tail tips, paws and the scrotum. Signs can include pale, gray or bluish skin, coldness, pain or swelling, and later blistering or darkened skin. Frostbite may not be obvious until hours or days later.
What to do
- Move your dog to a sheltered, warmer place, such as your tent or vehicle.
- Wrap your dog in dry blankets or a sleeping bag. Share body heat if needed.
- Use warm, not hot, water bottles wrapped in cloth near the chest and belly.
- Do not rub frostbitten areas, which can cause more tissue damage.
- Offer warm water to drink if your dog is alert.
- Contact a veterinarian as soon as possible. Severe hypothermia and frostbite need professional care.
Camp Setup and Routine
- Choose a sheltered campsite out of the wind.
- Set up camp before dark, giving your dog a chance to settle.
- Keep your dog inside the tent at night. Do not leave dogs outside or alone in a car for long periods in cold weather.
- Dry your dog off before bed. A small towel or chamois helps remove snow and moisture.
- Check paws, ears and belly each evening for cuts, ice and signs of frostbite.
- Feed a meal before bed to help your dog generate body heat overnight.
- Keep a routine. Familiar routines help dogs feel calm in new places.
Pack a Dog First Aid Kit
Bring a small first aid kit for your dog, or add dog supplies to your own. Useful items include:
- Gauze, non-stick pads and self-adhesive bandage wrap
- Antiseptic wipes recommended by your vet
- Tweezers and scissors
- Paw balm and spare booties
- A digital thermometer
- An emergency blanket
- Your vet’s phone number and the nearest emergency vet clinic
Our guide to a first aid kit for campers covers the human items to pack alongside.
Leave No Trace With Dogs in Winter
Dog waste does not disappear in snow. It stays frozen and reappears in spring, often in high-traffic areas. Pack it out in bags, and follow local regulations. Keep your dog on trail where required to protect vegetation and wildlife, and check whether dogs are allowed on your route, since some parks and wildlife areas restrict pets.
Questions People Ask
Frequently Asked Questions
How cold is too cold to camp with a dog?
It depends on your dog’s breed, coat, size, age and health. Thick-coated dogs tolerate cold much better than small or short-coated breeds. Ask your vet, and test in cold weather close to home first.
Do dogs need sleeping pads?
Yes. Snow and frozen ground pull heat away quickly. An insulated pad with a blanket or dog sleeping bag on top helps your dog stay warm.
Should my dog wear booties in the snow?
Booties protect paws from cold, ice balls and ice melt chemicals. Many dogs need practice to get used to them.
Can dogs eat snow for water?
Eating snow is not a reliable source of hydration and takes body heat to melt. Bring unfrozen water and offer it often.
