Quick answer: for phones, headlamps and small devices, a power bank is usually enough. For fans, lights, laptops, CPAP machines or small appliances at a site without hookups, a portable power station with an AC outlet makes sense. Size either one by adding up the watt-hours your devices use, then add a margin for conversion losses. Recharge from the car, a campground outlet or solar panels, keep batteries out of hot cars, and if you use a fuel generator, run it outdoors far from tents and RVs because of carbon monoxide.
Power has quietly become part of the camping checklist. Phones hold maps, weather alerts and emergency contacts. Headlamps and lanterns recharge by USB. Some campers need power for medical devices, and families want to keep a fan running on a hot night. A campsite without hookups no longer has to mean going without, but choosing the right equipment takes a little arithmetic.
The two main options are power banks, the pocket-sized batteries most people already own, and portable power stations, larger battery units with multiple outlets that can run small appliances. Both use lithium-ion batteries, and both have limits worth understanding before you rely on them in the field.
This guide is part of our camping gear and checklists guide, which covers lighting, shelter, kitchen and packing for every kind of trip. Power is a tool, not a replacement for the basics, so a paper map and spare batteries for your headlamp still belong in the pack.
Power Banks: Small, Simple and Portable
Power banks are rechargeable batteries with USB ports. Banks like these are ideal for phones, headlamps, GPS units, cameras, small speakers and other devices that charge by USB.
Reading the Capacity
Power bank capacity is usually listed in milliamp-hours (mAh). That figure refers to the internal battery cells, which run at about 3.7 volts, while USB devices charge at a higher voltage. Because of that conversion and normal efficiency losses, the energy actually delivered to your phone is noticeably less than the headline number suggests. Many power banks also list capacity in watt-hours (Wh), which is a more useful comparison.
To convert, multiply milliamp-hours by the cell voltage and divide by 1,000. A 10,000 mAh bank at 3.7 volts holds about 37 watt-hours of energy before losses.
Output and Charging Speed
Look at output ratings in watts. Higher-wattage USB-C Power Delivery ports charge phones and tablets faster and can run some laptops. Several ports let you charge more than one device at a time, though total output may be shared.
Choosing a Size
Small banks fit in a pocket and top up a phone once or twice. Larger banks recharge several devices over a weekend but weigh more. Backpackers usually choose the smallest bank that covers their trip, while car campers can carry larger ones.
Portable Power Stations: Bigger Batteries With Outlets
Portable power stations are larger battery units with a built-in inverter for AC outlets, plus USB ports and often a 12-volt car-style socket. They can run devices that a power bank cannot, such as fans, string lights, laptops, small refrigerators, CPAP machines and, in larger units, some small appliances.
Capacity in Watt-Hours
Power station capacity is listed in watt-hours. A watt-hour is the energy used by a one-watt device running for one hour. A unit rated at 300 watt-hours could, in theory, run a 30-watt device for about ten hours, though real run time is lower because of inverter losses, especially when using AC outlets.
Output in Watts
Output ratings show how much power the station can deliver at once. The continuous rating is what it can sustain; the surge or peak rating is what it can handle briefly when a device starts up. Devices with motors or heating elements, such as blenders, hair dryers and coffee makers, can exceed the output of smaller units. Check every device’s wattage label before plugging it in.
Battery Chemistry
Many power stations use lithium nickel manganese cobalt (NMC) cells, which are lighter for their capacity. Others use lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4), which is heavier but usually rated for many more charge cycles. Manufacturers list the cycle rating, the number of full charges before capacity drops to a stated percentage.
Weight and Size
Power stations range from lunchbox size to units that need two hands or wheels. Heavier units are fine for car and RV camping but impractical for anything carried far.
How to Estimate What You Need
A simple calculation prevents both overbuying and running out halfway through the weekend.
- List every device you plan to power.
- Find each device’s power use in watts on its label or in the manual. For USB devices, the charger rating is a rough upper limit.
- Estimate hours of use per day for each device.
- Multiply watts by hours to get watt-hours per day for each device, then add them up.
- Multiply by the number of days without recharging.
- Add a margin for conversion losses and cold weather, which reduces battery capacity.
A Worked Example
Imagine a weekend with two phones, two headlamps and a small fan. Check each device’s label for its actual numbers. If a fan is rated at 10 watts and runs for 8 hours a night, it uses about 80 watt-hours per night. Phones and headlamps add their own amounts based on their battery sizes. Totaling everything for two nights, then adding a margin, gives the capacity to look for. Doing the math with your own devices is more reliable than any general rule.
Common Device Power Labels
Most chargers and appliances list their power on a label or in the manual, either in watts or as volts and amps; multiply volts by amps to get watts. USB chargers often show several output combinations, so use the highest one your device actually uses. A plug-in watt meter, sold at hardware stores, measures real consumption at home and takes the guesswork out of planning. Measuring a fan or a small cooler for an evening at home tells you far more than an estimate from a spec sheet.
Medical Devices
If you rely on a CPAP or other medical device, plan carefully. Check the device manufacturer’s power specifications and guidance for battery use, since some offer DC adapters that use power more efficiently than running through an AC inverter, and heated humidifiers can draw much more power than the machine itself. Test your full setup at home for a night before trusting it at camp, and have a backup plan, such as a site with electric hookups. Talk with your doctor or equipment supplier if you have questions.
Recharging at Camp
Car Charging
A vehicle’s 12-volt socket or USB port can recharge power banks and many power stations while driving. Avoid running the engine for long periods at camp just to charge devices, and never idle in an enclosed space. Running accessories from the car with the engine off can drain the starter battery, so watch the battery level carefully.
Campground Outlets
Sites with electric hookups make recharging easy. Many campgrounds also have outlets at restrooms or camp stores; ask staff before plugging in.
Solar Panels
Portable solar panels can recharge power stations and some power banks on sunny days. Panel ratings in watts describe output under ideal test conditions; real output is usually lower and drops sharply with shade, clouds, poor angles and heat. Face panels toward the sun, adjust their angle during the day and keep them clear of shadows. Many power stations include a built-in solar charge controller; check the input limits before connecting a panel.
Generators and Carbon Monoxide
Fuel-powered generators produce much more power than batteries, and many RV campers use them. Every fuel generator also produces carbon monoxide, an odorless gas that can kill. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission warns never to run a generator inside a tent, RV, garage or any enclosed or partly enclosed space, and to keep it well away from windows, doors and vents. At a campsite, place it far from tents and RV openings, and install a working carbon monoxide alarm in any RV. Our guide to campsite safety basics covers carbon monoxide in more detail.
Many campgrounds, including many in national and state parks, restrict generator use to set hours or ban generators in some loops. Check the rules before you go, and consider a battery power station as a quieter alternative for small loads.
Battery Safety and Care
Lithium-ion batteries are safe when used correctly, but damage and heat increase the risk of overheating and fire.
- Buy products tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory, such as those carrying a UL certification mark.
- Keep batteries out of hot cars and direct sun; heat shortens battery life and can be dangerous.
- Do not charge or use a battery that is swollen, cracked, leaking or unusually hot.
- Charge on a hard, non-flammable surface, not on a sleeping bag or in a pile of gear.
- Use the charger and cables recommended by the manufacturer.
- Store batteries partly charged if they will sit unused for months, following the manufacturer’s guidance.
Flying With Batteries
If your trip starts with a flight, battery rules matter. The Federal Aviation Administration requires spare lithium batteries and power banks to travel in carry-on bags only, never in checked luggage. Under FAA rules, batteries up to 100 watt-hours are generally allowed in carry-on bags, batteries between 101 and 160 watt-hours need airline approval with a limit of two spares, and batteries over 160 watt-hours are not allowed on passenger aircraft. Most portable power stations exceed that limit, so they usually cannot fly. Check with your airline before traveling.
Cold Weather
Cold reduces battery capacity, and some lithium batteries should not be charged below freezing. Keep power banks in an inside pocket or sleeping bag on cold nights, and check the manufacturer’s temperature limits for charging power stations.
Disposal
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency advises not to put lithium-ion batteries in household trash or curbside recycling bins, since damaged batteries can start fires. Take them to a battery recycling drop-off or household hazardous waste collection site.
Choosing by Trip Type
Backpacking
A small power bank, sized to recharge a phone and headlamp for the length of the trip, is usually all that is needed. Switch phones to airplane mode when not in use to save power.
Car Camping
A medium or large power bank covers most families. A small power station adds the ability to run a fan, string lights or a laptop. Our guide to camping on a budget explains which gear purchases are worth it.
Van and RV Camping
Vans and RVs often combine a power station or house battery with solar panels and shore power. Our guide to van camping for beginners covers power setups and other van basics, and our article on RV first-trip mistakes includes power and hookup errors to avoid.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size power bank do I need for camping?
Add up the watt-hours your devices need for the trip and choose a bank with comfortably more, since delivered capacity is lower than the label.
Can a portable power station run a CPAP?
Many can, but check the CPAP manufacturer’s power specifications, test at home first and have a backup plan.
How long will a power station last?
Divide its watt-hour capacity by the watts your devices draw, then subtract a margin for inverter losses.
Can I bring a power bank on a plane?
Yes, in carry-on bags only. The FAA allows batteries up to 100 watt-hours without approval and 101 to 160 watt-hours with airline approval.
Do solar panels work on cloudy days?
Panels still produce some power, but output drops sharply in clouds and shade.
Is it safe to run a generator near my tent?
Only outdoors and far from tents and RVs. The CPSC warns that generator exhaust contains deadly carbon monoxide.
Is a power bank or a power station better for camping?
A power bank is lighter, cheaper and enough for phones and headlamps. A power station is better when you need AC outlets or more capacity for fans, laptops or medical devices.
