Quick answer: RV hookups are the utility connections at a campsite: electricity (shore power), fresh water and sewer. “Full hookups” means all three; “partial” usually means water and electric. A 30-amp RV uses a three-prong 120-volt plug with about 3,600 watts available, while a 50-amp RV uses a four-prong plug with two 120-volt legs and about 12,000 watts available. Turn the pedestal breaker off before plugging in, use a surge protector, connect fresh water with a drinking-water-safe hose and a pressure regulator, and keep the black tank valve closed until you dump.
Pulling into a campsite with hookups for the first time can feel like a puzzle: a metal power pedestal with several outlets, a water spigot, and a capped sewer pipe in the ground. Once you understand what each connection does, hooking up becomes a 15-minute routine.
This guide explains each type of RV hookup, how to connect it safely and in what order. For the bigger picture of choosing a rig, budgeting and finding campgrounds, see our RV camping for beginners guide.
Sources: National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) receptacle configurations (TT-30 and 14-50); National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) electrical safety guidance; U.S. Fire Administration RV fire safety; RV Industry Association (RVIA) consumer information; NSF/ANSI 61 standard for drinking water system components; U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) on wastewater disposal; campground rules published by state park systems and Recreation.gov. Checked October 2026.
What Are RV Hookups?
RV hookups are connections that let your RV use a campground’s electricity, water supply and sewer system instead of its own batteries, generator and holding tanks. With hookups, you can run air conditioning, take longer showers and stay longer without dumping tanks.
Hookup terms you will see
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Full hookups (FHU) | Electric, water and sewer at your site |
| Partial hookups (W/E) | Water and electric only; use a dump station for tanks |
| Electric only | Power but no water or sewer at the site |
| Dry camping | No hookups; you rely on tanks, batteries and generator |
| Boondocking | Dry camping outside developed campgrounds, often on public land |
| Pull-through | You drive in one end and out the other without backing |
| Back-in | You reverse into the site |
Where hookups are on your RV
On most RVs, the shore power cord, water inlet and sewer outlet are on the driver’s side, and campsites are laid out so the pedestal and sewer connection sit on that side. Look at the site map or walk the site before you park so your connections line up.
Electric Hookups: 30 Amp vs 50 Amp
The electrical pedestal is the post at your site with outlets and breakers. Most pedestals offer a 50-amp outlet, a 30-amp outlet and a standard household outlet, though older campgrounds may have only 30-amp or 20-amp service.
30-amp service
A 30-amp RV plug follows the NEMA TT-30 configuration: three prongs (one hot, one neutral and one ground) at 120 volts. Multiplying 30 amps by 120 volts gives about 3,600 watts available at one time. That is enough for one air conditioner plus a few small appliances, but not everything at once.
50-amp service
A 50-amp RV plug follows the NEMA 14-50 configuration: four prongs (two hots, a neutral and a ground). It supplies two separate 120-volt legs of 50 amps each, for about 12,000 watts in total. Larger motorhomes and fifth wheels with two air conditioners, residential refrigerators or washer-dryers often need 50-amp service.
30 amp vs 50 amp at a glance
| Feature | 30 amp | 50 amp |
|---|---|---|
| Plug prongs | 3 | 4 |
| Voltage | 120 V | Two 120 V legs (120/240 V) |
| Approximate available power | 3,600 W | 12,000 W |
| Typical rigs | Smaller trailers, Class C, many Class B | Large Class A, fifth wheels, rigs with two AC units |
| Cord | Thinner and lighter | Heavier and stiffer |
Using adapters
Adapters, often called “dogbones,” let you plug into a different outlet type. A 50-amp rig can plug into a 30-amp pedestal with a 50-to-30 adapter, but you are then limited to about 3,600 watts, so you may need to run one appliance at a time. A 30-amp rig can plug into a 50-amp outlet with an adapter and works normally. Plugging into a standard 15- or 20-amp household outlet keeps lights and small appliances running but usually cannot support the air conditioner.
Typical appliance power use
Check the labels on your own equipment, but these rough ranges show why 30-amp service fills up quickly:
- RV air conditioner: often around 1,500 to 2,000 watts while running, with a higher surge at startup
- Microwave: often around 1,000 to 1,500 watts
- Electric water heater element: often around 1,400 watts
- Hair dryer: often around 1,200 to 1,800 watts
- Coffee maker: often around 800 to 1,200 watts
If the RV’s main breaker or the pedestal breaker keeps tripping, you are probably running too many high-draw appliances at once.
How to Connect Shore Power Safely
Electrical problems at the pedestal can damage RV appliances or create a shock hazard. The U.S. Fire Administration lists electrical issues among the causes of RV fires, so a careful routine matters.
Step by step
- Look at the pedestal for damage, scorching or loose outlets.
- Switch the pedestal breaker to OFF.
- Plug in a surge protector or electrical management system (EMS) and check its readings for correct wiring.
- Plug the RV power cord into the surge protector.
- Switch the pedestal breaker to ON.
- Confirm power inside the RV and check the surge protector display for voltage.
To disconnect, reverse the order: turn the pedestal breaker off before unplugging.
Surge protector vs EMS
A basic surge protector absorbs voltage spikes and often shows wiring faults with indicator lights. An electrical management system goes further, cutting power if it detects problems such as reversed polarity, an open ground or voltage that is too high or too low, then restoring power when conditions return to normal. Low voltage is common at crowded campgrounds on hot afternoons when many air conditioners run at once.
Cord safety
- Use only RV-rated shore power cords and adapters, not household extension cords.
- Keep connections off wet ground where possible.
- Do not run cords under the RV tires.
- Replace cords with cracked jackets, melted plugs or burn marks.
Fresh Water Hookups
A city water connection lets the campground’s pressurized water supply flow straight into your RV plumbing, bypassing the fresh tank and water pump.
Gear you need
- Drinking-water-safe hose. Use a hose labeled for potable water (often white or blue), ideally certified to NSF/ANSI 61 or labeled lead-free. Keep it only for drinking water.
- Pressure regulator. Campground water pressure varies and can be high enough to stress RV plumbing. Many RV manufacturers recommend a regulator and list a maximum pressure in the owner’s manual.
- Inline water filter (optional). Filters reduce sediment and improve taste.
- Elbow fitting (optional). Reduces kinking at the RV inlet.
Step by step
- Flush the campground spigot for a few seconds before attaching anything.
- Attach the pressure regulator (and filter, if used) at the spigot.
- Connect the hose to the regulator and to the RV’s city water inlet.
- Turn on the water slowly.
- Open a faucet inside to purge air from the lines.
- Check every connection for leaks.
Using the fresh tank instead
At sites with no water hookup, fill the fresh water tank from a potable spigot, then use the RV’s water pump. Turn the pump off when you connect to city water. Our guide on finding and treating water while camping covers treatment options if you are unsure of a water source.
Cold weather
Hoses can freeze overnight. In freezing temperatures, either disconnect and use the fresh tank or use a heated hose. Follow your RV manual for cold-weather operation.
Sewer Hookups
A sewer hookup lets you drain your gray and black tanks directly into the campground’s septic or sewer system. At partial hookup sites, you use the campground dump station instead.
Gear you need
- A 3-inch RV sewer hose with a bayonet fitting for the RV outlet
- A sewer hose support, so waste flows downhill
- A threaded or rubber “donut” seal for the ground inlet; many campgrounds require one to prevent odors and leaks
- Disposable gloves
- A separate, non-drinking hose for rinsing (never your potable hose)
Step by step
- Put on gloves.
- Confirm both tank valves are closed, then remove the cap from the RV sewer outlet.
- Attach the sewer hose to the RV outlet with a firm twist.
- Insert the other end into the ground inlet with a seal.
- Set up a hose support with a steady downhill slope.
Black and gray valve habits
Keep the black tank valve closed until the tank is about two-thirds full, then open it to dump. Leaving it open lets liquids drain away while solids stay behind and build up. Many RVers leave the gray valve closed too, then open it after the black tank so soapy gray water rinses the hose. At long stays, you can open the gray valve for routine drainage, but close it a day or so before dumping black.
Proper dumping order
- Open the black tank valve and let it drain completely.
- Close the black valve.
- Open the gray tank valve to rinse the hose.
- Close the gray valve.
- Rinse and store the hose in a dedicated container.
Dump only into approved sewer connections or dump stations. The EPA regulates wastewater disposal, and dumping RV tanks on the ground or into storm drains is illegal in many places and spreads pathogens.
The Best Order to Hook Up and Unhook
A consistent order prevents mistakes such as driving away with the sewer hose attached.
Arrival order
- Park, level and chock the RV.
- Connect electricity (breaker off, surge protector, breaker on).
- Connect fresh water with the regulator.
- Connect the sewer hose, keeping the black valve closed.
- Connect cable or other extras if offered.
Departure order
- Dump black, then gray.
- Disconnect and stow the sewer hose.
- Disconnect water and drain the hose.
- Turn off the pedestal breaker, then unplug power.
- Do a walk-around to check that every connection is stored and caps are back on.
A checklist taped inside a cabinet door helps. Our printable RV camping checklist for families is a good starting point.
What to Do Without Hookups
Many beautiful campsites, including many national park and national forest campgrounds, have no hookups. RVs are designed for this.
- Power: Use your house battery, a generator during allowed hours, or solar. Our guide to portable power for camping explains watt-hours and sizing.
- Water: Arrive with a full fresh tank and conserve with short showers and a dishpan.
- Waste: Arrive with empty tanks and know where the nearest dump station is.
Van campers often rely almost entirely on onboard systems; our van camping guide for beginners covers that style.
Common RV Hookup Mistakes
- Plugging in with the pedestal breaker on
- Skipping a surge protector at an unfamiliar campground
- Using a garden hose or the rinse hose for drinking water
- Forgetting the water pressure regulator
- Leaving the black valve open on full hookups
- Dumping gray before black
- Connecting the sewer hose without a seal at the ground inlet
- Driving off with the power cord still plugged in
For more first-trip lessons, see RV first-trip mistakes and how to avoid them.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does full hookup mean for an RV?
Full hookup means your campsite includes an electrical pedestal, a fresh water connection and a sewer connection, so you can run appliances, use city water and drain your tanks at the site.
What is the difference between 30 amp and 50 amp RV service?
A 30-amp service uses a three-prong, 120-volt plug and provides about 3,600 watts. A 50-amp service uses a four-prong plug with two 120-volt legs and provides about 12,000 watts, enough for larger rigs with multiple air conditioners.
Can I plug a 50 amp RV into a 30 amp outlet?
Yes, with a 50-to-30 adapter, but you will be limited to about 3,600 watts. Run high-draw appliances one at a time to avoid tripping breakers.
Do I need a surge protector for my RV?
A surge protector or electrical management system is strongly recommended. It guards against voltage spikes and, in the case of an EMS, shuts off power when it detects wiring faults or unsafe voltage.
Should I leave my black tank valve open at full hookups?
No. Keep it closed until the tank is about two-thirds full, then dump. An open black valve lets liquids drain away and leaves solids behind.
What kind of hose should I use for RV drinking water?
Use a hose labeled for drinking water, such as one certified to NSF/ANSI 61 or labeled lead-free, and use it only for fresh water.
Sources
- National Electrical Manufacturers Association. NEMA wiring device configurations (TT-30, 14-50).
- National Fire Protection Association. Electrical safety guidance.
- U.S. Fire Administration. RV fire safety.
- RV Industry Association. Consumer and RV systems information.
- NSF International. NSF/ANSI 61, drinking water system components.
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Wastewater and septic system information.
- Recreation.gov and state park systems. Campground hookup and dump station rules.
