Quick answer: check RV and trailer tire pressure cold before every travel day, using the pressure on the vehicle’s tire placard or owner’s manual rather than the maximum printed on the sidewall. Make sure the tires’ load rating covers what your rig actually weighs, which means weighing it at a scale. Read the four-digit date code on each tire’s DOT number, inspect for cracks, bulges and uneven wear, and replace aging tires even if tread looks fine. In a blowout, hold the wheel firmly, do not slam the brakes and let the vehicle slow gradually before pulling off.
Tires are easy to ignore on an RV. They sit under a big, heavy body, many rigs spend months parked and the tread on a trailer tire can look nearly new for years. Yet tire trouble is one of the most common causes of breakdowns on RV trips, and a blowout at highway speed is dangerous.
The good news is that most tire problems are preventable with a few minutes of checks. This guide covers pressure, load, age, inspection and what to do if a tire fails. It sits within our RV and van camping guide for beginners, which covers rigs, costs and campgrounds.
Sources: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), “Tires” safety pages, tire identification number guidance, tire pressure monitoring rule (FMVSS No. 138) and recall lookup; U.S. Tire Manufacturers Association, tire care and service guidance; RV and trailer owner’s manuals and tire placards; tire makers’ load and inflation tables. Checked October 2026. Always follow your vehicle and tire manufacturers’ specifications.
Why RV Tires Need Extra Attention
RV tires carry heavy, often uneven loads, and many rigs sit still for long stretches between trips. Both conditions are hard on rubber.
- Weight. A loaded travel trailer or motorhome can come close to, or exceed, its tires’ load capacity if it is packed heavily or unevenly.
- Heat. Underinflated or overloaded tires flex more and build heat, which weakens the internal structure.
- Time. Rubber ages even when a tire is not used. Sun, ozone and long periods in one position can cause cracking and internal breakdown.
- Low mileage. Because many RVs travel few miles a year, tires often age out long before they wear out, which can give owners a false sense of safety.
Step 1: Set the Right Pressure
Correct inflation is the single most important tire habit. NHTSA advises using the pressure listed on the vehicle’s tire information placard or certification label, usually found on a door jamb, inside a cabinet or on the trailer’s front left side, or in the owner’s manual. The number on the tire sidewall is the maximum the tire can hold, not the recommended pressure for your vehicle.
Check pressure when tires are cold. NHTSA describes a cold tire as one that has not been driven on for at least three hours. Driving heats the air inside, which raises the reading and can fool you into letting air out.
Practical tips:
- Use a quality gauge that reads high enough for RV pressures.
- Check every tire, including inner duals on motorhomes, which are easy to skip.
- Check before every travel day and after big temperature changes.
- Do not let air out of hot tires to bring them down to the recommended number.
If you have weighed your rig (see below), the tire manufacturer’s load and inflation table can show the pressure needed to support your actual axle weights. Never go below what the vehicle placard requires, and never exceed the tire’s maximum.
Step 2: Know What Your Tires Can Carry
Every tire has a maximum load, printed on the sidewall alongside the pressure it needs to carry that load. RV owners should understand a few sidewall markings.
Tire types
| Marking | Meaning | Typical RV use |
|---|---|---|
| ST | Special Trailer, designed only for trailers | Many travel trailers and fifth wheels |
| LT | Light Truck | Some trailers, many motorhomes and tow vehicles |
| P | Passenger | Cars and small SUVs; not for trailers unless the maker specifies |
ST tires are built for trailer service and are not meant for use on a tow vehicle or motorhome. Some trailer owners switch to LT tires, but any change must still meet the trailer’s load and size requirements and the wheel’s rating.
Load range
Load range letters, such as C, D or E, indicate how much the tire can carry at its maximum pressure. Use the load range specified for your rig or higher, and remember the wheel must also be rated for the pressure and load.
Weigh your rig
The only way to know whether tires are overloaded is to weigh. Public truck scales at many travel centers can weigh the vehicle by axle. Weigh fully loaded as you travel, with water, propane, food and gear aboard. Compare each axle’s weight with the axle’s rating, the vehicle’s gross weight rating and the total capacity of the tires on that axle.
Trailers can also suffer from poor weight distribution. Our guide to towing a travel trailer explains tongue weight and hitch setup, both of which affect how load reaches the tires.
Step 3: Check Tire Age
Every tire sold in the U.S. carries a Tire Identification Number, often called the DOT code, on the sidewall. According to NHTSA, the last four digits give the week and year of manufacture. A code ending in 3223, for example, means the tire was made in the 32nd week of 2023. The full code may be on only one side, so check both.
NHTSA does not set a single replacement age, but it notes that tires degrade over time even with little use. Some vehicle manufacturers recommend replacing tires six years after their production date, and some tire makers set their own limits; check your owner’s manual and the tire maker’s guidance. When buying a used RV, look at the dates first, since tires that came with the rig may be much older than they look.
Step 4: Inspect Before Every Trip
A walk-around inspection takes a few minutes. Look for:
- Cracks in the sidewall or between tread blocks, a sign of aging or weather damage
- Bulges or blisters, which can signal internal damage; replace the tire
- Uneven wear, such as one edge wearing faster, which may point to alignment, axle or inflation problems
- Cuts, punctures or embedded objects
- Tread depth. NHTSA explains that tires have built-in tread wear indicator bars that become flush with the tread at 2/32 of an inch, the point where a tire is worn out. The penny test, placing Lincoln’s head into the tread, is a quick check: if you can see all of his head, the tread is too shallow.
- Valve stems and caps, which should be intact and not cracked
- Lug nuts, torqued to specification, especially after new tires or wheel service
Step 5: Use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Federal rules (FMVSS No. 138) require tire pressure monitoring systems on most new passenger cars and light trucks under 10,000 pounds gross vehicle weight. Many trailers and larger motorhomes do not have them, but aftermarket systems with sensors on each valve stem can alert you to falling pressure or rising temperature while you drive.
A TPMS is a warning tool, not a replacement for checking pressure with a gauge. It can, however, give you time to pull over before a slow leak becomes a blowout.
Step 6: Store Your RV With Tires in Mind
How the RV sits between trips affects tire life.
- Cover the tires when parked for long periods to block sunlight.
- Keep them inflated to the recommended pressure during storage.
- Park on a clean, firm surface rather than bare dirt or grass if you can, and keep tires away from petroleum products.
- Move the RV occasionally, or follow the manufacturer’s storage advice, to reduce flat-spotting.
- Clean tires with mild soap and water; avoid harsh dressings unless the tire maker approves them.
Seasonal storage is a good time to inspect tires closely. Our guide on how to winterize an RV covers the rest of the off-season checklist.
Driving Habits That Protect Tires
How you drive affects tire heat and wear as much as how you maintain them.
Respect speed ratings. Every tire has a speed rating, and some trailer tires carry lower maximum speeds than car tires. Check the sidewall and the tire maker’s guidance, and plan travel days at a relaxed pace.
Take breaks on hot days. Long stretches at highway speed in summer heat raise tire temperatures. A stop every couple of hours gives you a chance to walk around the rig, look at each tire and, with a TPMS, compare temperatures.
Avoid curbs and potholes. Scraping a curb in a tight gas station or hitting a deep pothole can damage a sidewall in ways that are not visible right away. Inspect any tire that took a hard hit.
Watch your tow vehicle too. On a travel trailer or fifth wheel, the truck’s rear tires carry part of the trailer’s weight through the hitch. Check the tow vehicle’s placard for any towing pressure recommendations and include its tires in every pre-trip check.
What to Do in a Blowout
A sudden tire failure on a heavy vehicle is frightening, and the instinct to brake hard can make things worse. NHTSA and tire industry guidance give the same core advice:
- Hold the steering wheel firmly with both hands and keep the vehicle straight.
- Do not slam on the brakes.
- Ease off the accelerator gradually and let the vehicle slow down.
- Once under control and at a lower speed, brake gently and signal.
- Pull completely off the road to a safe place, turn on hazard lights and set out warning triangles if you have them.
On a trailer, a blowout may cause sway. Most towing guidance advises easing off the accelerator and, if equipped, applying the trailer brakes manually with the brake controller rather than the tow vehicle’s brakes. Practice using the controller in a safe setting before you need it.
Change the tire only if you can do it safely, well away from traffic. Otherwise, call roadside assistance. Many RV owners carry a roadside plan that covers large vehicles, since standard car plans may not.
Recalls and Registration
Tires can be recalled like vehicles. NHTSA’s website lets you search for recalls by vehicle or tire identification number. Registering your tires with the manufacturer at purchase helps ensure you are notified if a recall affects them.
Pre-Trip Tire Checklist
- Pressure checked cold on every tire, including inner duals and spare
- Load within tire, wheel and axle ratings (weighed loaded)
- DOT date codes recorded and within the maker’s age guidance
- No cracks, bulges, cuts or uneven wear
- Tread above the wear bars
- Valve caps on, lug nuts torqued
- TPMS sensors working, if fitted
- Spare tire inflated, plus a jack rated for the vehicle and lug wrench aboard
Tire problems are high on the list of RV first-trip mistakes, and a short routine prevents most of them.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should RV tires be replaced?
There is no single rule. Tires age even if tread looks fine, and some vehicle makers recommend replacement six years after production. Check the DOT date code, inspect regularly and follow your vehicle and tire manufacturers’ guidance.
What pressure should my RV tires be?
Use the pressure on the vehicle’s tire placard or in the owner’s manual, checked cold. The number on the sidewall is the tire’s maximum, not the recommended pressure.
How do I read the date on an RV tire?
Find the DOT Tire Identification Number on the sidewall. The last four digits show the week and year of manufacture, such as 3223 for the 32nd week of 2023.
What is the difference between ST and LT tires?
ST tires are designed only for trailer use. LT tires are light truck tires used on many motorhomes and tow vehicles. Any tire must meet your rig’s load and size requirements.
What should you do if an RV tire blows out?
Hold the wheel firmly, do not slam the brakes, ease off the accelerator and let the vehicle slow before pulling safely off the road.
